Tow hitch evolution and installation — when factory prep pays off

The history and modern meaning of the tow hitch: factory packages, retrofits, and key decisions before installation

There was a time when trailers were hauled by chains and crude hooks. But in the early 1930s, the German company Westfalia, together with engineer Franz Knöbel, laid a new cornerstone: the ball hitch became the blueprint of modern towing, and 50 mm its standard dimension. From that moment, towing apparatus evolved from rough add-ons to precise mechanical systems.

Over the decades, drivers and manufacturers settled on three major types: fixed hitches, removable (detachable), and swing/rotatable (or power-swing). Each offers its own balance of simplicity, aesthetics, and convenience. In Europe, the 50 mm ball standard prevails, and most manufacturers build their designs around it.

Yet hitch installation is not just about hardware — you must comply with regulation UNECE R55. That's not bureaucratic fluff; it’s your assurance of safety, durability, and legal compliance. In Germany and across the EU, installing a hitch without proper certification often triggers inspections via TÜV or Dekra.

Here’s where things get more nuanced: many automakers offer not a full tow hitch, but factory preparation for one. Volkswagen, for instance, uses a code “1M5” which means the car already includes the wiring harness, control unit, and all the groundwork needed for future activation. In other words, you can upgrade later without ripping out panels or redoing complex wiring.

Still — if you plan serious towing, say a trailer weighing a ton — it can be wiser to order a full towing package from the start. That includes not just the hitch, but reinforced cooling, upgraded alternator, integration with driver aids (Trailer Sway Control, trailer brake controller), and factory calibration. The result: better load ratings and seamless operation right out of the box.

But what if you skip doing anything now and decide to retrofit later? Retrofitting isn’t trivial. After installing the hardware, you’ll need diagnostics — coding ECUs for rear parking sensor deactivation, lamp monitoring, electronic assistants, etc. You might also face bumper modifications or cutouts. As forums show (e.g. around the Skoda Kodiaq Mk2), sometimes kits aren’t available immediately after a new model’s launch.

In Germany, you can expect roughly 2–3 hours for mechanical mounting, and another 1–1.5 hours for wiring and coding. Total cost (parts + labor + activation) can vary by model and complexity.

With the rise of electric vehicles, the topic gains extra weight: towing capacities for EVs are often constrained, and not all models come with official towing approval. Thus, factory prep or integrated kits become especially valuable.

Ultimately, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer to “should you prep for a tow hitch in advance?” — it hinges on your make, trim level, towing plans, and market. But if your car supports factory prep, that’s almost a built-in future safety net. And if you foresee heavy towing, going straight for the full package is usually the smarter move.

In either path, remember: messing with wiring and coding isn't just risk — it's your chance to integrate a perfectly native-functioning system, if done right.